Indonesia blogger

This is our 6th visit to Ubud, Bali and we've never seen it so busy.  There are tourists everywhere, shops being renovated, hotels having additions, restaurants buzzing.  Looks like Bali is recovering well and truly from its post bombing quiet times. 

We are back at the Sri Bungalows, in a brand new "deluxe" room, overlooking the rice paddies and the slowly changing routines of the local farmers and their children.  For the last two afternoons we've watched in amusement (as we drink our daily Bintangs) as the farmers herd the ducks in from their day's grazing on the wildlife in amongst the rice plants.  It takes them at least half an hour to round them all up and is an object lesson in how the Balinese have become such a patient, even tempered people.

The Ubud Markets were buzzing this morning, lots more stalls, twice as much bling, accents from all over the world (but very few Australians still). Its Indonesian Independence day tomorrow so red and white bunting and flags are decorating everything.  It was "blessing of the metal" day yesterday so it was very special driving into Ubud with everyone's cars and scooters decorated and big ceremonies being conducted in the temples, with people dressed in all their finery, amazing headdresses and offerings everywhere.  It seemed to be another special day today with offerings being made throughout the day, piled one upon the other.

We saw a shocking scene right in front of the Ubud Markets in the main street: a huge area of subsidence, the full width of the road and up to 7-8 metres deep and at least 30-40 metres long.  It shocked us....it must have been an awful event.  I remember a couple of years ago watching craftsmen laying intricate patterns in this roadway as cars and scooters narrowly circled them.  Now, almost where they were doing this beautiful work on the surface, there is this gaping deep hole! No wonder the Balinese work so hard to appease the spirits. They must never know what life will throw at them next.

We are enjoying the sensation of being warm, although Ubud itself feels cooler than in previous visits.  I even had to work myself up to the first plunge into the pool this morning. 

We've spent a slow day re-acquainting ourselves with the village, marvelling at all the changes, appreciating our wonderful lunch (fresh juices, Nasi Campur and Balinese pancakes stuffed with coconut and palm sugar) at our favourite Bimbu Bali.  Our lunch was so filling we had no appetite for a full meal tonight after Bintangs on the balcony so lime tart and Bali Kope at the very crowded but still very beautiful Casa Luna Restaurant was all we could manage.

It was great to meet up with John Penrose yesterday and hear all the news: Gede is married to a Balinese girl on Lombok and they are expecting their first baby in 7 or so months time. Gede still hopes to finish his Masters Degree in Education (specializing in Hindu religion studies) at the end of next year.  No news of Ketut as yet.  

I was amazed to hear of John's close connection with Angelo Gavriolatis, the current President of the AEU, and then to hear of Angelo's work in setting up the first democratically elected Teachers Union in Indonesia and his direct involvement in all the tsunami recovery projects in Aceh.