We proved we're jinxed regarding our Kimberley travel plans today. Our wonderful trip to Kununurra, Berkeley River, Broome and the Burrup Peninsula came unstuck at the very last minute when borders closed in 2021 and now our bucket list cruise trip from Broome to Darwin - due to leave tomorrow, is now OFF for us too! Rob tested positive for Covid today and he's not feeling great - so no cruising for us! So disappointing!
I'm feeling fine so far although a little flat and in a state of suspended animation. After getting everything sorted that we could this morning and seeing Rob comfortable and stoked up on panadol I went for a walk to Town Beach which is a kilometre or so down the road from where we're staying at McAlpine House. It was such a beautiful day, unlike the state of my mind!
The beautiful Town Beach jetty is a popular fishing spot for the locals.
I admired the prowess of three young women reeling in fish after fish off the end of the jetty - just using hand lines and minimal equipment.
They told me the name of the fish in Yawaru language, and a few recipes they like using. The fish is "a bit like trevally" in English. The young women (sisters) come and fish most days (when the kids are at school) which must be a big help when there are 21 extended family members to feed. The father was fishing there today too - the women told me he was a traditional owner of the Roebuck Bay area.
There were a lot of fish around today and others were reeling them in too.
I took the opportunity to check out the Bungalow branch of the Short St Gallery at Town Beach too - what a feast of art works stacked along every wall!!
This afternoon we were booked into a unique Wakaj Experience offered by Mabu Buru Aboriginal tours - a chance to learn more about the traditional cultural practices of the West Kimberley region. I went along, masked up in the bus and careful to keep my distance from everyone, just in case i am incubating anything.
As we gathered on the purpose built site for Mabu Baru (about 15 klm north of Broome) it was a huge treat being in the presence of Mervyn Mulardy a senior elder and lore man of the Karajarri people. He gave us a mesmerising description of the life cycle dreaming story of "Yatangal", drawing big sweeping lines and symbols out in the red dust as he talked.
While he was talking a female family member was cooking damper in the coals .......
which was served with bush honey and cups of hot tea.........
Uncle Mervyn introduced the Pintirri dancers, telling the stories of his grandfather's songlines ....
These are cheesy pictures of us I know but it was a happy opportunity to admire the dancers' specially made spears for this performance - made of long branches straightened by fire and heat, painted and decorated with feathers.
It was hard saying goodbye to David and Ro - the second time our shared Kimberley travel plans have come unstuck. They're off tomorrow to enjoy the trip of a lifetime, but without us!
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