Monday, April 29, 2024

A day in Tokyo

We really achieved quite the miracle meet up in Tokyo this morning. We'd arranged via WhatsApp (via Google Translate) to meet up with our dear friend Haruko's brother Shin and his partner Kyoko at Tsukishimo Station at 11am. We were going to have lunch at one of the monjayaki restaurants that this area of Tokyo is famous for. We don't speak Japanese and Shin and Kyoko don't speak English, so we knew it was going to be an "interesting" meetup as well as fun.

Despite Rob's best efforts his phone's global roaming isn't working in Tokyo(??) so we were left to find Tsukishimo Station (about 3 and a 1/2 klms from our hotel) without using GoogleMaps and without the full benefit of online Google Translate either.

Despite all this, walking to Tsukishimo was very interesting. We skirted around Hama Rikyu gardens and over a bridge over a branch of the Sumida River to get there - so all very varied, but all so quiet and laid back in this oh so busy city.

It felt quite miraculous to eventually meet up with Shin and Kyoko as we'd planned at the station. We greeted each other like old friends and shared our respective greetings (them in English and us in Japanese) - and after that we had to rely on Google Translate for everything.

Shin is an enthusiastic and skilful monjayaki cook. It made for a fun lunch. Monjayaki is actually a perfect accompaniment to Japanese beer and great for audience participation. This version had cod roe and tiny rice cakes in it.
Followed by a Kansai version of Okonomiyaki (with pork) - also delicious!
I thought Shin was taking a picture of his Okonomiyaki - but he sneaked in a picture of us instead!
This was how everyone else was doing it!
The obligatory pics outside the restaurant on Tsukashima's famous Monja "eat street"

From Tsukashima we took a taxi to the amazing Sumida Hokusai Museum in the Ryogoku district of Tokyo. Built in 2016 the museum is dedicated to the artist Hokusai who was born in this district and who spent most of his long life here.  The building itself is a work of art, in its own right.

I thought I knew a fair bit about the work of Hokusai, but to see so much of his work so well curated, and to see so much of it depicting the local scenery (albeit that of Tokyo (and Mt Fuji) around 200 years ago) was a rare treat. 
The woodblock printing process was so well explained too .....
That famous wave print - its iconic!
Hokusai was such a prolific artist - thousands of beautiful drawings filling hundreds of books over his 90+ years of living. What a treat to see some of them.....
We caught the subway then to Kameido Tenjin Shrine in Tokyo's Koto Ward. Built in 1661 the shrine is a place of worship for the Shinto god of learning. The temple was VERY crowded today - being the last day of Golden Week, a Japanese holiday when the wisteria  is is full bloom. Five days ago the wisteria blossoms were at their peak. Unfortunately they were past their peak today, but the crowds were heavier than ever. We did not even attempt to get close to the shrine itself as the lines were too long.
As an interesting aside Kyoko reminded me that Utagawa Hiroshige, another famous Japanese artist of the same era as Hokusai produced many beautiful woodblock prints - views of the Tenjin Shrine at Kameido (and specifically of that red bridge).

Of course this was well before the grounds of the temple also framed a beautiful view of Tokyo's nearby Skytree Tower.

Walking the streets around the temple was very interesting too.

We walked past this open parkland area facing Hokusai-Dori Avenue; unusual to find open space like this in built up Tokyo - and very crowded with families having picnics on this holiday afternoon.
Shin and Kyoko came with us back to Hamamatsucho - just to make sure we were managing the train system ok - they are so caring and generous in looking out for us! We enjoyed a coffee together before saying goodbye - until the next time we meet up - maybe in Australia?? (fingers crossed!)

Walking back to the hotel we're always intrigued by these character filled old buildings behind the modern hotels and corporate buildings of Hamamatsucho!
Dinner last night was at a local small udon noodle "Tokyo Diner" type of place. We loved it - especially the tofu, Wagyu beef sushi and sardine appetizers, and the turnip? tempura garnishing each bowl of udon noodles.

And we cannot walk past our local Dorayaki suppliers for dessert .....


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