Saturday, November 10, 2018

Hiking from Megome to Tsumago

We set off very early this morning, catching the 7.45am JR train from Nagoya heading NE towards Nakatsugawa (over an hour away on the Chuo line). Here we'd pick up a local bus to take us on to Magome the start of the heritage walk between Magome and Tsumago, two restored and preserved Edo period way stations (post towns) along the old Nakasendo highway between Edo (Tokyo and Kyoto). 

Magome was busy this morning with lots of visitors strolling the main walkway...... But despite the crowds we made a serious start here on the 7.5klm hike ahead of us anyway.

 Cute pet dogs (in multiples) are obviously a thing in Japan ......


 It's persimmon season here and many of the houses had fruit strung up - drying in the sun. 
 And I loved this water drainage system along the trail in Magome......
 Once we reached the highest point of the town - the crowds had really thinned out and only the serious hikers were left.

 The first 2klm of the hike is all uphill (pretty steep too!) through the mountains. Lucky the trail passes through some beautiful country to make the climb worth it. It had rained overnight so it was wet underfoot too. We walked very carefully.......


 a beautiful rubbish bin along the trail......
 And there are black bears in this country too!!
As the trail started to flatten out we passed through a couple of small settlements. The houses were restored and preserved versions of the original Edo structures and the trail forces people to walk  very close to where people are living out their lives. I found it fascinating. 
 (more persimmons drying)







About half way along the trail is the Ichikokutochi Tatebachaya (old house for free resting with tea service) a very comfortable rest spot with full service Japanese toilets, drinking water, a place to sit and rest, and a lovely gentleman serving green tea (and hiking advice - using his English vocabulary of about 5 words).
 Through a cedar forest .......
 Approaching the spectacular Odaki-Medaki Falls.....


 Walkers are encouraged to ring bells all along the trail as it helps to scare the bears away they say!!
 Our path was extremely high up above this ravine - but the photo doesn't really show it! No good for people with height issues!
 As we got closer to Tsumago the country really opened out letting the sun and light in. Tsumago is at a much lower elevation than Magome, in the valley of the Kiso River. It's much less touristy than Magome too .



 Tsumago ....
 We enjoyed our 2 and 1/2 hour hike along the old Nakasendo highway. It was good to get out of the crowds of the cities and really test ourselves working out complicated transport arrangements to get here (although Rod had prepared us so well with all his advance research). The other walkers were mostly locals who greeted us warmly and looked very happy to be in the outdoors and this was a lovely experience for us as well.

It took us hours to get back to Nagoya.. a 35min wait for the bus from Tsumago to the JR station at Nagiso. Then another 40 min wait for the train back to Nakatsugawa. Then over an hour back to Nagoya on the JR Chuo line. It was 4.30 by the time we got back - time for a well deserved beer and our first proper meal of the day.

It was dark by the time we got back to the hotel. I thought the foyer looked quite glamorous in the evening light.

1 comment:

Maxine said...

What a great account and beautiful photo record of an amazing adventure!

Glad the only black bears you saw were on the sign posts! xxx